The awamori highball is how Okinawa drinks through a summer, and it is the easiest introduction to the category.
One part shochu to three or four parts mixer, over plenty of ice. If it tastes thin, go two to three next time.
What it tastes like
Awamori from Yamakawa Shuzo in Okinawa. Importer's tasting notes: barley, steamed rice, caramel, sharp. Nobody here has tasted this one, so the profile below is estimated from what its importer publishes rather than from the glass.
rice
barley
steamed rice
caramel
sharp
long finish
cask
aged
koji
Sweet
3/5
Body
4/5
Aroma
3/5
Fruit
1/5
Floral
1/5
Grain
3/5
Earth
2/5
Umami
2/5
Base
rice
Koji
black koji
Distillation
single atmospheric distillation
ABV
43%
Aging
a blend of equal parts awamori aged 5 to 15 years, bottled without dilution
What to mix with it
Tap a family to narrow it down. Every suggestion carries its reasoning, so if the reasoning does not convince you, ignore the suggestion.
Braulio, made in Bormio from gentian, juniper, peppermint and yarrow, around forty-five dollars. A summer drink on shochu and a winter one on whisky, which is one bottle behaving two ways.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
Oak rested and 21 percent, so half and half with a cask-aged bottle is one drink at about 23
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Bitter orange: sour and aromatic rather than sweet, the citrus that goes into ponzu. Bottled juice is sold for cooking and works straight in a glass. Use the peel too, it carries most of the smell.
Black koji leaves citric acid in the mash, so awamori already leans citrus before anything is added.
The peel is doing what the orange twist on an old fashioned does
Hot water in the glass first, spirit poured on top so it mixes itself. Around 40C in the glass is the sweet spot. This is not the only way, it is one way.
Water and ice is how awamori is drunk in Okinawa, and with an aged kusu it is the serve that lets the age show instead of burying it under a mixer.
A Miyazaki citrus eaten with the white pith left on, which is sweet rather than bitter. Gentler and more floral than lemon, so it flavours a drink without taking it over.
Black koji leaves citric acid in the mash, so awamori already leans citrus before anything is added.
Softer acid than lemon, so the rice sweetness stays in the glass
Roasted buckwheat, in any Japanese grocery, hot or cold. In a soba restaurant the same serve is made with soba-yu, the starchy water the noodles were boiled in, which is thicker and cannot be bought.
Oolong and jasmine both belong to the same Chinese-adjacent kitchen awamori grew up in.
Roasted buckwheat and roasted barley are one idea arrived at from two grains
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Cynar, 16.5 percent, which is weaker than the shochu itself, so equal parts lands near 20 percent and the drink stays long. Soda or a grapefruit soda over the top is the producer's own serve.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
The Japanese Bitters, five 100ml expressions, sold at Astor Wines in New York. Angostura at nearly 45 percent is a small spike in a 25 percent drink in a way these are not.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Cocchi Americano: moscato steeped with cinchona bark, gentian and bitter orange. Lillet dropped its quinine in 1985, so only the Americano side of the category still tastes of the bark, and equal parts with a shochu is about 21 percent.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Cappelletti Sfumato, where sfumato means smoked and the smoke is the point, or the sweeter Zucca. At 20 percent it can take a third of the glass and still leave the drink under 22.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Okinawa's own citrus, picked green and sharp, more bitter than lime and more floral than sudachi. Squeezed over awamori and soda it is what the islands actually drink.
Black koji leaves citric acid in the mash, so awamori already leans citrus before anything is added.
Jack Rudy's Extra Bitter, made with real cinchona bark, or Small Hand Foods'. Half a teaspoon and soda, set to the bottle in front of you rather than to a tonic maker's idea of a spirit.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
The Kyushu condiment, in a tube in any Japanese grocer: fermented yuzu peel, green chili and salt. A quarter teaspoon stirred into an oyuwari, which is the serve Asahi publishes.
Star anise, chilli and ginger all read as native rather than imported on this base.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Lustau or González Byass. Fino is salt and living flor; this is what is left after the flor dies, and at 18 percent an ounce lengthens the glass rather than strengthening it.
Both have spent years going quietly brown, and they meet in the middle
Cold-pressed juice or thin slices. Green apple is already in the aroma of a lot of rice shochu, so this amplifies what is there rather than adding something new.
Cask-aged bottles have the wood; apple has the orchard
D.O.M. Bénédictine, on most back bars. Rounder and much sweeter than the alpine liqueurs, so it suits bottles that already lean sweet rather than clean.
Sakamoto's, fermented outdoors in earthenware jars in Fukuyama and aged at least a year; Toiro and Japanese Taste ship it in the US. A teaspoon in a mizuwari is the whole intervention, and a second one is usually a mistake.
Black vinegar is rice fermented with koji and then soured, so it is the same mould arriving a second time
Blandy's or Barbeito, ten year. It is the one fortified wine that brings real acid, so it can do the lemon's job on a bottle where fresh citrus reads harsh.
Barrel against barrel, except this one brings back the acid the cask took away
Eden Foods sells it as Ume Plum Vinegar in most US supermarkets, and it is one of the cheapest things on this list. A bar spoon, and unlike a crushed umeboshi it can go into a shaken drink.
Salt and lactic acid land on the sweetness koji leaves behind
Sweet yuzu liqueur, usually on a sake or shochu base. A shortcut to yuzu when the fruit is out of season.
Barley shochu, yuzushu, soda: a yuzu sour without a yuzu
Ways to serve it
On the rocks
Mizuwari (with water)
Awamori is older than mainland shochu, and what defines it is black koji and an all-koji mash rather than the Thai rice nearly every distillery happens to use. The black koji leaves citric acid behind, which is why it wants citrus and tropical fruit and why it will split milk.
Cocktails other people made
Nobody has published a cocktail written for this exact bottle. These were written for other bottles, so each one says which, and what changes if you pour this instead.
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not awamori. We have this one as the fuller of the two, which is what will move most in the glass.
·3 ounces buckwheat tea concentrate (see editor's note)
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not awamori. We have this one as the fuller of the two, which is what will move most in the glass.
·1 ounce plus 5 teaspoons shochu, preferably iichiko saiten
·1/2 teaspoon mezcal, preferably fidencio joven
·3/4 ounce citrus blend (equal parts lemon and lime juice)