The awamori highball is how Okinawa drinks through a summer, and it is the easiest introduction to the category.
One part shochu to three or four parts mixer, over plenty of ice. If it tastes thin, go two to three next time.
What it tastes like
Awamori from Yamakawa Shuzo in Okinawa. Importer's tasting notes: citrus, vanilla, chocolate, sweet. Nobody here has tasted this one, so the profile below is estimated from what its importer publishes rather than from the glass.
rice
citrus
vanilla
chocolate
sweet
aged
koji
Sweet
3/5
Body
4/5
Aroma
4/5
Fruit
1/5
Floral
1/5
Grain
2/5
Earth
2/5
Umami
2/5
Koji
black koji
Distillation
atmospheric distillation, genshu (undiluted)
ABV
44%
Aging
3 years
What to mix with it
Tap a family to narrow it down. Every suggestion carries its reasoning, so if the reasoning does not convince you, ignore the suggestion.
Bitter orange: sour and aromatic rather than sweet, the citrus that goes into ponzu. Bottled juice is sold for cooking and works straight in a glass. Use the peel too, it carries most of the smell.
Black koji leaves citric acid in the mash, so awamori already leans citrus before anything is added.
The peel is doing what the orange twist on an old fashioned does
A Miyazaki citrus eaten with the white pith left on, which is sweet rather than bitter. Gentler and more floral than lemon, so it flavours a drink without taking it over.
Black koji leaves citric acid in the mash, so awamori already leans citrus before anything is added.
Softer acid than lemon, so the rice sweetness stays in the glass
Cocchi Americano: moscato steeped with cinchona bark, gentian and bitter orange. Lillet dropped its quinine in 1985, so only the Americano side of the category still tastes of the bark, and equal parts with a shochu is about 21 percent.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
Quinine and gentian give a measured bitterness where an amaro would take the glass over
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
The Kyushu condiment, in a tube in any Japanese grocer: fermented yuzu peel, green chili and salt. A quarter teaspoon stirred into an oyuwari, which is the serve Asahi publishes.
Star anise, chilli and ginger all read as native rather than imported on this base.
Fermented peel gives citrus without the acid a fresh yuzu would add
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Braulio, made in Bormio from gentian, juniper, peppermint and yarrow, around forty-five dollars. A summer drink on shochu and a winter one on whisky, which is one bottle behaving two ways.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Cynar, 16.5 percent, which is weaker than the shochu itself, so equal parts lands near 20 percent and the drink stays long. Soda or a grapefruit soda over the top is the producer's own serve.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Hot water in the glass first, spirit poured on top so it mixes itself. Around 40C in the glass is the sweet spot. This is not the only way, it is one way.
Water and ice is how awamori is drunk in Okinawa, and with an aged kusu it is the serve that lets the age show instead of burying it under a mixer.
Okinawa's own citrus, picked green and sharp, more bitter than lime and more floral than sudachi. Squeezed over awamori and soda it is what the islands actually drink.
Black koji leaves citric acid in the mash, so awamori already leans citrus before anything is added.
Jack Rudy's Extra Bitter, made with real cinchona bark, or Small Hand Foods'. Half a teaspoon and soda, set to the bottle in front of you rather than to a tonic maker's idea of a spirit.
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Hoppy Beverage Co. has made it in Tokyo since 1948; at 0.8 percent it is legally a soft drink, and it is hard to find outside Japan. Chill the bottle, the shochu and the mug and no ice is needed.
The awamori highball is how Okinawa drinks through a summer, and it is the easiest introduction to the category.
An aged bottle is the one you would not lengthen with a beer substitute
Carbonation carries aroma up out of the glass, so a highball shows an aromatic bottle off rather than diluting the point of it.
The Japanese Bitters, five 100ml expressions, sold at Astor Wines in New York. Angostura at nearly 45 percent is a small spike in a 25 percent drink in a way these are not.
Kelp and bonito next to a cocoa note is two kitchens at once
Aged kusu is intense enough to meet amaro without either one winning.
Tokushima yuzu at 27 percent, which is the shochu's own strength, so a dropper moves flavour and not proof
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Lustau or González Byass. Fino is salt and living flor; this is what is left after the flor dies, and at 18 percent an ounce lengthens the glass rather than strengthening it.
Both have spent years going quietly brown, and they meet in the middle
Zuiyo's Kuririn, from Japanese chestnuts at 11 percent, or Dover's wa-shu kuri, which is on a rum base. A dessert direction, and not the same thing as kuri shochu, which is a base spirit.
Chestnut and cocoa is a dessert that already exists
Sakamoto's, fermented outdoors in earthenware jars in Fukuyama and aged at least a year; Toiro and Japanese Taste ship it in the US. A teaspoon in a mizuwari is the whole intervention, and a second one is usually a mistake.
Black vinegar is rice fermented with koji and then soured, so it is the same mould arriving a second time
Dolin dry or Noilly Prat. A quarter of the shochu's volume, stirred cold.
Dry vermouth and a sweet bottle argue
Rice shochu and dry vermouth, stirred, is the martini bars actually serve at this proof
Rice shochu, dry vermouth, a lemon twist
Ways to serve it
On the rocks
Mizuwari (with water)
Awamori is older than mainland shochu, and what defines it is black koji and an all-koji mash rather than the Thai rice nearly every distillery happens to use. The black koji leaves citric acid behind, which is why it wants citrus and tropical fruit and why it will split milk.
Cocktails other people made
Nobody has published a cocktail written for this exact bottle. These were written for other bottles, so each one says which, and what changes if you pour this instead.
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not awamori. We have this one as the fuller of the two, which is what will move most in the glass.
·3 ounces buckwheat tea concentrate (see editor's note)