Mugicha (barley tea), tall over ice. Genmaicha with it.
Oolong-hai and green tea highballs are on every izakaya menu, and barley is clean enough to let the tea lead.
One part shochu to three or four parts mixer, over plenty of ice. If it tastes thin, go two to three next time.
What it tastes like
Mugi shochu from Hamada Shuzo in Kagoshima. Importer's tasting notes: citrus, melon, banana, vanilla. Nobody here has tasted this one, so the profile below is estimated from what its importer publishes rather than from the glass.
barley
citrus
melon
banana
vanilla
umami
sweet
bright
whisky-like
cask
Sweet
3/5
Body
2/5
Aroma
3/5
Fruit
2/5
Floral
0/5
Grain
4/5
Earth
1/5
Umami
1/5
Koji
white koji
ABV
24%
Aging
over one year in oak barrels
What to mix with it
Tap a family to narrow it down. Every suggestion carries its reasoning, so if the reasoning does not convince you, ignore the suggestion.
Roasted buckwheat, in any Japanese grocery, hot or cold. In a soba restaurant the same serve is made with soba-yu, the starchy water the noodles were boiled in, which is thicker and cannot be bought.
Oolong-hai and green tea highballs are on every izakaya menu, and barley is clean enough to let the tea lead.
A melon note disappears under roasted grain
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Roasted buckwheat and roasted barley are one idea arrived at from two grains
Lustau or González Byass. Fino is salt and living flor; this is what is left after the flor dies, and at 18 percent an ounce lengthens the glass rather than strengthening it.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Flor leaves a savoury edge behind it, and koji leaves the same one
Blandy's or Barbeito, ten year. It is the one fortified wine that brings real acid, so it can do the lemon's job on a bottle where fresh citrus reads harsh.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Barrel against barrel, except this one brings back the acid the cask took away
Cold-pressed juice or thin slices. Green apple is already in the aroma of a lot of rice shochu, so this amplifies what is there rather than adding something new.
Barley's light sweetness reads as orchard fruit already, so apple and pear extend the bottle rather than decorate it.
Cask-aged bottles have the wood; apple has the orchard
Hot water in the glass first, spirit poured on top so it mixes itself. Around 40C in the glass is the sweet spot. This is not the only way, it is one way.
Barley has less to open up than sweet potato, so water shows you exactly what is there. That is a fair test and not always a flattering one: a thin mugi has nowhere to hide in it.
Soft water, cold, over ice or not. One to one is normal. Mix a day ahead (maewari) and the edges round off.
Barley has less to open up than sweet potato, so water shows you exactly what is there. That is a fair test and not always a flattering one: a thin mugi has nowhere to hide in it.
The Kyushu condiment, in a tube in any Japanese grocer: fermented yuzu peel, green chili and salt. A quarter teaspoon stirred into an oyuwari, which is the serve Asahi publishes.
Fermented peel gives citrus without the acid a fresh yuzu would add
The salt in it raises the perceived sweetness of koji
Bitter orange: sour and aromatic rather than sweet, the citrus that goes into ponzu. Bottled juice is sold for cooking and works straight in a glass. Use the peel too, it carries most of the smell.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
Hoppy Beverage Co. has made it in Tokyo since 1948; at 0.8 percent it is legally a soft drink, and it is hard to find outside Japan. Chill the bottle, the shochu and the mug and no ice is needed.
The barley highball is the default shochu drink in Japan. Clean spirit, cold soda, nothing in the way.
A Miyazaki citrus eaten with the white pith left on, which is sweet rather than bitter. Gentler and more floral than lemon, so it flavours a drink without taking it over.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
Okinawa's own citrus, picked green and sharp, more bitter than lime and more floral than sudachi. Squeezed over awamori and soda it is what the islands actually drink.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
Sakamoto's, fermented outdoors in earthenware jars in Fukuyama and aged at least a year; Toiro and Japanese Taste ship it in the US. A teaspoon in a mizuwari is the whole intervention, and a second one is usually a mistake.
A koji ferment of rice poured into a koji spirit distilled from rice, so the savour is family rather than contrast
Dashi-wari and an umeboshi in hot barley shochu are real izakaya orders, but they belong to a winter counter rather than a summer glass.
D.O.M. Bénédictine, on most back bars. Rounder and much sweeter than the alpine liqueurs, so it suits bottles that already lean sweet rather than clean.
Two slices from any Asian grocery, seeds out. The bitterness is water soluble, so at 25 percent it steeps in minutes and stops there, where a 40 percent spirit pulls it medicinal within the hour.
Cucumber and a clean barley highball is the most refreshing thing you can build out of this category.
Mikawa Mirin from Sumiya Bunjiro Shoten, made from glutinous rice, koji and shochu since 1911 with no added sugar. Not the sweetened seasoning sold as mirin-fu chomiryo, which is a different product.
It adds body and savour where a sugar syrup would only add sugar
Dewazakura's from Yamagata plums, or Machida Shuzo's on Amami kokuto shochu. It does umeshu's job and leaves the glass drier, which matters when the bottle is already sweet.
Acid and colour at once, and the drink stays drier than it would with umeshu
Braulio, made in Bormio from gentian, juniper, peppermint and yarrow, around forty-five dollars. A summer drink on shochu and a winter one on whisky, which is one bottle behaving two ways.
This is a light bottle and this is a heavy ingredient. It will not taste bad, it will taste like the ingredient.
Oak rested and 21 percent, so half and half with a cask-aged bottle is one drink at about 23
The bottle is already reaching for that shelf, and this is the amaro that meets it there
The Japanese Bitters, five 100ml expressions, sold at Astor Wines in New York. Angostura at nearly 45 percent is a small spike in a 25 percent drink in a way these are not.
This is a light bottle and this is a heavy ingredient. It will not taste bad, it will taste like the ingredient.
The Umami expression is kelp, shiitake and bonito, aimed straight at the glutamate koji already put there
Tokushima yuzu at 27 percent, which is the shochu's own strength, so a dropper moves flavour and not proof
Buy the drinking grade from a shop with a liquor licence, not the salted cooking bottle, which will wreck the drink. A bar spoon is enough.
Its oxidative depth dulls a bright bottle
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Two savoury ferments, one brewed and one distilled
Ways to serve it
Mizuwari (with water)
On the rocks
Barley is the easiest shochu to hand to someone who has never had any. It behaves like a clean grain spirit with a little cereal sweetness, so a highball with lemon needs no explaining and no apology.
Cocktails other people made
Nobody has published a cocktail written for this exact bottle. These were written for other bottles, so each one says which, and what changes if you pour this instead.
Written for Nankai Gold Shochu, which is a brown sugar shochu, not a barley shochu. This bottle is lighter, 24% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.
Written for Nikaido Kitchomu Barley Shochu, also a barley shochu. We have this one as the more fruit-forward of the two, which is what will move most in the glass.
·nikaido kitchomu (mugi shochu) 40ml
·fuutan (imo shochu with kuro koji) 10ml
·lillet blanc (mixed with roasted rice and yuzu peel) 10ml