Carbonation carries aroma up out of the glass, so a highball shows an aromatic bottle off rather than diluting the point of it.
One part shochu to three or four parts mixer, over plenty of ice. If it tastes thin, go two to three next time.
What it tastes like
Kokuto shochu from Yayoi Shochu Jozosho in Kagoshima. Importer's tasting notes: rice, banana, cherry, rich. Nobody here has tasted this one, so the profile below is estimated from what its importer publishes rather than from the glass.
kokuto
rice
banana
cherry
rich
full-bodied
cask
aged
koji
Sweet
4/5
Body
5/5
Aroma
4/5
Fruit
1/5
Floral
0/5
Grain
1/5
Earth
2/5
Umami
2/5
Base
kokuto (brown sugar) with rice koji
Koji
white rice koji
Distillation
atmospheric distillation
ABV
24%
Aging
five years in evergreen oak barrels
What to mix with it
Tap a family to narrow it down. Every suggestion carries its reasoning, so if the reasoning does not convince you, ignore the suggestion.
Bitter orange: sour and aromatic rather than sweet, the citrus that goes into ponzu. Bottled juice is sold for cooking and works straight in a glass. Use the peel too, it carries most of the smell.
Cane sugar spirit and lime is the daiquiri, and kokuto shochu is a cane spirit at two thirds the proof.
There is real sugar in this bottle already, and acid is what keeps it from reading as syrup.
Brown sugar and bitter orange is rum and orange with the sugar turned down
The peel is doing what the orange twist on an old fashioned does
A Miyazaki citrus eaten with the white pith left on, which is sweet rather than bitter. Gentler and more floral than lemon, so it flavours a drink without taking it over.
Cane sugar spirit and lime is the daiquiri, and kokuto shochu is a cane spirit at two thirds the proof.
There is real sugar in this bottle already, and acid is what keeps it from reading as syrup.
Softer acid than lemon, so the rice sweetness stays in the glass
Okinawa's own citrus, picked green and sharp, more bitter than lime and more floral than sudachi. Squeezed over awamori and soda it is what the islands actually drink.
Cane sugar spirit and lime is the daiquiri, and kokuto shochu is a cane spirit at two thirds the proof.
There is real sugar in this bottle already, and acid is what keeps it from reading as syrup.
Okinawa's citrus against Amami's sugar, which is the whole southern islands in a glass
Hot water in the glass first, spirit poured on top so it mixes itself. Around 40C in the glass is the sweet spot. This is not the only way, it is one way.
Warmth brings the molasses forward. Cold water is the better choice if the bottle is already sweet, because it lengthens without pushing the sugar further.
Braulio, made in Bormio from gentian, juniper, peppermint and yarrow, around forty-five dollars. A summer drink on shochu and a winter one on whisky, which is one bottle behaving two ways.
Brown sugar carries bitterness the way a boulevardier carries whiskey. Amaro and red bitter both land.
Oak rested and 21 percent, so half and half with a cask-aged bottle is one drink at about 23
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
The Kyushu condiment, in a tube in any Japanese grocer: fermented yuzu peel, green chili and salt. A quarter teaspoon stirred into an oyuwari, which is the serve Asahi publishes.
Ginger and brown sugar is a dark and stormy. Kokuto shochu makes it at half the alcohol.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Sakamoto's, fermented outdoors in earthenware jars in Fukuyama and aged at least a year; Toiro and Japanese Taste ship it in the US. A teaspoon in a mizuwari is the whole intervention, and a second one is usually a mistake.
There is real sugar in this bottle already, and acid is what keeps it from reading as syrup.
Black vinegar is rice fermented with koji and then soured, so it is the same mould arriving a second time
Eden Foods sells it as Ume Plum Vinegar in most US supermarkets, and it is one of the cheapest things on this list. A bar spoon, and unlike a crushed umeboshi it can go into a shaken drink.
There is real sugar in this bottle already, and acid is what keeps it from reading as syrup.
Salt and lactic acid land on the sweetness koji leaves behind
Soft water, cold, over ice or not. One to one is normal. Mix a day ahead (maewari) and the edges round off.
Warmth brings the molasses forward. Cold water is the better choice if the bottle is already sweet, because it lengthens without pushing the sugar further.
Rice shochu mizuwari is a dinner drink in Kumamoto
Cynar, 16.5 percent, which is weaker than the shochu itself, so equal parts lands near 20 percent and the drink stays long. Soda or a grapefruit soda over the top is the producer's own serve.
Brown sugar carries bitterness the way a boulevardier carries whiskey. Amaro and red bitter both land.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
The Japanese Bitters, five 100ml expressions, sold at Astor Wines in New York. Angostura at nearly 45 percent is a small spike in a 25 percent drink in a way these are not.
Brown sugar carries bitterness the way a boulevardier carries whiskey. Amaro and red bitter both land.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Cocchi Americano: moscato steeped with cinchona bark, gentian and bitter orange. Lillet dropped its quinine in 1985, so only the Americano side of the category still tastes of the bark, and equal parts with a shochu is about 21 percent.
Brown sugar carries bitterness the way a boulevardier carries whiskey. Amaro and red bitter both land.
There is enough weight here to stand up to a bitter or a spice without disappearing under it.
Food-grade citric and malic powder from the canning aisle, 10 grams whisked into 100 grams of cold water; two parts citric to one malic is close to lime. Some bartenders find a drink with no juice in it thin, so it is worth trying both ways.
There is real sugar in this bottle already, and acid is what keeps it from reading as syrup.
Lustau or González Byass. Fino is salt and living flor; this is what is left after the flor dies, and at 18 percent an ounce lengthens the glass rather than strengthening it.
Both have spent years going quietly brown, and they meet in the middle
Cold-pressed juice or thin slices. Green apple is already in the aroma of a lot of rice shochu, so this amplifies what is there rather than adding something new.
Cask-aged bottles have the wood; apple has the orchard
D.O.M. Bénédictine, on most back bars. Rounder and much sweeter than the alpine liqueurs, so it suits bottles that already lean sweet rather than clean.
Blandy's or Barbeito, ten year. It is the one fortified wine that brings real acid, so it can do the lemon's job on a bottle where fresh citrus reads harsh.
Barrel against barrel, except this one brings back the acid the cask took away
Dewazakura's from Yamagata plums, or Machida Shuzo's on Amami kokuto shochu. It does umeshu's job and leaves the glass drier, which matters when the bottle is already sweet.
The Amami bottlings are literally kokuto shochu with plum steeped in it
Small Hand Foods', or sugar, water and gum arabic from the baking aisle at home. Worth knowing that most Japanese gum syrup on a shelf today has no arabic gum in it at all.
The bottle already brings sugar. Add more only to balance a sharp acid, never to sweeten.
Ways to serve it
On the rocks
Mizuwari (with water)
Brown sugar shochu is legally only made on the Amami islands, and it is a cane spirit in everything but name. Every rum drink you know is available to it at two thirds the alcohol.
Cocktails other people made
Nobody has published a cocktail written for this exact bottle. These were written for other bottles, so each one says which, and what changes if you pour this instead.
Written for Tantakatan Shiso Shochu, which is a shiso shochu, not a brown sugar shochu. This bottle is stronger, 24% against 20%, so it will take more mixer than the original asks for.
punchdrink.com · Christian Suzuki, Kagano (Pop Up!), San Francisco
Renai Revolution
Written for a different style
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not a brown sugar shochu. This bottle is lighter, 24% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.
·1 1/2 ounces shochu, preferably iichiko saiten
·1/2 ounce pandan-vanilla syrup (see editor's note)
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not a brown sugar shochu. This bottle is lighter, 24% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.
·1 ounce plus 5 teaspoons shochu, preferably iichiko saiten
·1/2 teaspoon mezcal, preferably fidencio joven
·3/4 ounce citrus blend (equal parts lemon and lime juice)
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not a brown sugar shochu. This bottle is lighter, 24% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.
·3 ounces buckwheat tea concentrate (see editor's note)