Tida Ichinojo Kokuto Shochu, long, with Ginger beer, and Cardamom.
Kokuto shochu and ginger beer is a dark and stormy at half the proof
One part shochu to three or four parts mixer, plenty of ice. If it tastes thin, go two to three next time. That is the whole method.
What it tastes like
Kokuto shochu from Asahi Shuzo in Kagoshima. Importer's tasting notes: rice. Nobody here has tasted this one, so the profile below is estimated from what its importer publishes rather than from the glass.
kokuto
rice
aged
koji
Sweet
Body
Aroma
Fruit
Floral
Grain
Earth
Umami
Base
estate grown organic kokuto brown sugar with Thai rice
Koji
black koji
Distillation
atmospheric distillation
ABV
25%
Aging
aged 1 to 2 years in enamel tanks
What to mix with it
Tap a family to narrow it down. Every suggestion carries its reasoning, so if the reasoning does not convince you, ignore the suggestion.
Cardamom
Strong match
A few crushed pods, or a syrup. Floral, citrusy and warm at once; it bridges fruit and spice.
Cinnamon
Strong match
A stick in hot water with the spirit, or a light syrup. Winter.
Ginger
Strong match
Fresh juice, a syrup, or a good ginger beer. The spice that makes a low-proof drink feel like it has a backbone.
Kumquat
Strong match
Eaten whole, peel and all. Muddle a few in a glass; the peel gives bitterness, the flesh gives tartness.
Star anise
Strong match
One star, steeped, for the dark bottles.
Amaro
Strong match
Montenegro, Nonino, Averna. Equal parts with a dark shochu over ice is a whole drink.
Amazake (sweet koji rice)
Strong match
The non-alcoholic koji drink, sweet from rice starch alone. Blend with the spirit and ice; it is a shochu smoothie.
Red aperitivo bitter (Campari-style)
Strong match
Campari, Aperol, or a Japanese bitter like Kina. The aperitivo hour is where sake and shochu make the most sense as cocktails.
Aromatic bitters
Strong match
Angostura or a Japanese aromatic. Two dashes.
Black tea (Earl Grey)
Strong match
Cold-brewed Earl Grey brings bergamot; plain black tea brings tannin. For the aged and brown-sugar bottles.
Hojicha
Strong match
Cold-brewed or hot. Roasted green tea, low in bitterness, high in toast. The oyuwari of teas.
Matcha
Strong match
Whisked into a slurry first, never dumped in dry. Bitter, umami and creamy at once.
Banana
Good match
Ripe banana, muddled or as a syrup. The banana note in ginjo sake is real chemistry, not a metaphor.
Coconut
Good match
Coconut water for lengthening, coconut milk or cream for weight.
Mikan (satsuma)
Good match
Sweet, low-acid Japanese mandarin. Juice it or drop segments in a glass. It needs a squeeze of something sharper alongside.
Orange
Good match
Fresh orange juice for a sparkling sake mimosa; the peel for stirred drinks with aged bottles.
Sansho pepper
Good match
A pinch of ground sansho over the top, or a few peppercorns steeped. Numbing, citrusy, green.
Sudachi
Good match
A small green citrus from Tokushima, sharper and more herbal than lime. Sold frozen or as juice in Japanese markets.
Togarashi (chili)
Good match
A rim of shichimi, or a slice of fresh chili. Heat on fruit, not on rice.
Vanilla
Good match
A split bean in a syrup, or a good extract, in small amounts.
Wasabi
Good match
A rice-grain amount, dissolved. For the savory, cucumber glass, not the fruit one.
Yuzu
Good match
The Japanese citrus that tastes like grapefruit, mandarin and lemon at once, with a floral peel. A little zest or juice goes a long way.
Lemon
Good match
Fresh juice, never bottled. The building block of the lemon sour, and the fastest way to give sake the acidity it does not have on its own.
Apricot
Good match
Fresh in season, dried the rest of the year. Apricot and umeshu share a family, which is why they get along.
Coffee (cold brew)
Good match
Cold brew, unsweetened. For barley, brown-sugar, cask-aged and awamori bottles; it will bury a daiginjo.
Cream
Good match
Half-and-half or heavy cream, in the after-dinner glass only.
Dry vermouth
Good match
Dolin dry or Noilly Prat. A quarter of the sake's volume, stirred.
Egg white
Good match
One white, dry-shaken. Texture without flavor.
Fernet
Good match
A quarter ounce. Menthol and bitterness, for the darkest bottles.
Fig
Good match
Fresh figs muddled, or fig jam. For the aged and the brown-sugar bottles only.
Fino sherry
Good match
Fino or manzanilla. Savory, salty, bone dry.
Genmaicha
Good match
Green tea with popped, toasted rice. Cold-brew it. Comfort in a glass.
Ginger beer
Good match
A spicy one, not a sweet one. The mule format works for every dark shochu and most sake.
Green tea (sencha)
Good match
Cold-brewed sencha, unsweetened. The green tea highball is one of the most common ways shochu is actually drunk in Japan.
Kinome (sansho leaf)
Good match
Young sansho leaves, clapped between the palms and floated. Hard to find outside Japanese markets in spring, worth the hunt.
Milk
Good match
Cold whole milk. Shochu milk-wari is a real order in Kyushu, not a dare.
Miso
Good match
White miso whisked into a syrup, a small spoon per drink. Salty, sweet and savory at once.
Oolong tea
Good match
Unsweetened, cold. One part shochu to three or four parts tea, over ice. It is the drink half of Japan orders with dinner.
Orange liqueur
Good match
Cointreau or a dry curaçao. The sweet-and-citrus half of any sour.
Sake (in a shochu drink)
Good match
A dry junmai as the lengthener for rice shochu, one to two. Low proof, all rice.
Soda water
Good match
Cold, and fizzy enough to matter. One part spirit to three or four parts soda for shochu; one to one for sake.
Soy sauce
Good match
A drop. Think of it as salt with depth, for the savory glass only.
Sparkling wine (brut)
Good match
Dry cava or crémant. Topping sake with it adds the acid and the bubbles sake lacks in one pour.
Black pepper
Good match
A few grinds over the top. Aroma more than heat.
Blood orange
Good match
Orange with a raspberry edge. Winter fruit; worth waiting for.
Grapefruit
Good match
Bitter, bright and forgiving. Ruby or white both work; white is drier. The grapefruit sour is a real bar order in Japan, not a novelty.
Kabosu
Good match
Oita's citrus, softer than sudachi. Bartenders in Oita mix it with the local barley shochu and soda.
Kiwi
Good match
Muddled with the seeds. Green, sour and refreshing, and cheap year round.
Lychee
Good match
Fresh in early summer, canned in syrup the rest of the year (drain it). The signature aroma of a whole school of imo shochu.
Mango
Good match
Ripe mango puree. Needs lime beside it or it goes flat.
Passion fruit
Good match
The most useful tropical fruit for mixing: intensely aromatic and properly sour. Pulp with seeds, or a good puree.
Honey
Good match
Diluted one to one with warm water so it mixes cold. A little goes far; taste before adding more.
Kokuto (brown sugar) syrup
Good match
Okinawan or Amami kokuto dissolved one to one in water. Molasses, minerals, a little salt.
Maple syrup
Good match
Dark, in small amounts, for the cask and sweet-potato bottles.
Orgeat (almond syrup)
Good match
Almond syrup with a touch of orange blossom. The tiki sweetener, and kokuto shochu is a tiki spirit waiting to happen.
Yuzu marmalade (yuja-cha)
Good match
The Korean-style yuzu preserve sold in jars. A spoon in hot water with shochu, or shaken cold.
Lime
Worth trying
Sharper and greener than lemon. The citrus for anything built on brown sugar or tropical fruit.
Pineapple
Worth trying
Fresh juice, or grilled wedges for a smokier drink. The awamori fruit.
Basil
Worth trying
Muddled gently with citrus. Thai basil brings anise, Italian basil brings pepper.
Crème de cassis
Worth trying
A bar spoon. Cassis-oolong is one of the most common izakaya orders in Japan.
Cherry
Worth trying
Fresh in early summer; morello or amarena in syrup otherwise. Dark cherry for aged bottles, bright cherry for sparkling.
Cranberry
Worth trying
Unsweetened juice. Sharp and a little tannic, useful for cutting sweetness.
Dashi
Worth trying
Warm kombu-and-bonito stock, lightly seasoned, mixed with the spirit. It sounds strange and tastes like an oden counter.
Dill
Worth trying
Fronds, gently muddled. For the savory, saline glass.
Elderflower liqueur
Worth trying
St-Germain or similar. A half ounce is enough.
Gentian (Suze-style)
Worth trying
Suze or Salers. Bitter root, bright yellow. A little in a highball changes everything.
Ginger ale
Worth trying
The gentle ginger. For bottles that a ginger beer would bully.
Hibiscus
Worth trying
Cold-brewed hibiscus tea: sour, cranberry-red and floral. Acid and color in one pour.
Hot water (oyuwari)
Worth trying
Hot water in the glass first, spirit poured on top so it mixes itself. Around 40C in the glass is the sweet spot. This is not the only way, it is one way.
Jasmine tea
Worth trying
Cold-brewed. Floral without sugar. The jasmine highball is a real menu item in Japan.
Kombu
Worth trying
A small piece steeped in the bottle overnight. Savory depth without salt.
Lemongrass
Worth trying
Bruised stalks steeped in the spirit, or a syrup. Citrus without acid, which is useful when you want aroma but not sourness.
Makrut lime leaf
Worth trying
Torn leaves steeped briefly. Perfumed citrus without juice.
Mugicha (barley tea)
Worth trying
Cold, unsweetened barley tea. Every Japanese fridge has a pitcher in summer. Mix one to three over ice.
Oat milk
Worth trying
The dairy-free milk that tastes of cereal, which is why it likes grain spirits.
Olive brine
Worth trying
A bar spoon, no more. Salt, and the savory note that comes with it.
Osmanthus (kinmokusei)
Worth trying
Dried osmanthus flowers steeped, or the syrup. Apricot and honey, and the smell of October in Japan.
Pickled ginger (gari)
Worth trying
A spoon of the brine, and a slice as garnish. Sweet, sour and hot at once.
Raspberry
Worth trying
Sour enough to be useful. Muddle a handful, or use a good puree.
Rosemary
Worth trying
A sprig, lightly toasted with a lighter, as garnish or stirred. Strong; a little.
Sakura (cherry blossom)
Worth trying
Salt-pickled blossoms (rinsed) or sakura syrup. Floral, faintly almond, a touch of salt.
Sea salt
Worth trying
A pinch in the glass or a half rim. Salt does not make a drink salty in small amounts; it makes it taste more like itself.
Shiitake
Worth trying
A dried shiitake steeped in the spirit for a day. Savory and strange in the best way.
Cold water (mizuwari)
Worth trying
Soft water, cold, over ice or not. One to one is normal. Mix a day ahead (maewari) and the edges round off.
Thyme
Worth trying
Gentler than rosemary. Steep a sprig, or use a thyme syrup.
Toasted sesame
Worth trying
A sesame syrup, or a rim of ground sesame and salt. Toasty and rich.
Tomato
Worth trying
Good tomato juice, or a ripe tomato muddled and strained. Sake's umami and tomato's are chemically the same thing.
Ume (Japanese plum)
Worth trying
Umeboshi (salt-pickled), ume syrup, or the fruit's own liqueur. Sour, salty and savory at once.
Umeboshi
Worth trying
One salted plum, crushed with a spoon in the glass. Salty, sour, savory.
Umeshu
Worth trying
Sweet, sour, almondy. A splash does the work of both syrup and citrus.
Calpico (cultured milk)
Worth trying
The concentrate, diluted with soda. Yogurt-sweet and sour. The Calpis sour is a national drink in Japan.
Mint
Worth trying
Slapped, not muddled to bits. Mint reads as cold, which makes any low-proof drink feel more refreshing.
Shiso
Worth trying
Green shiso leaves, slapped or muddled gently. Red shiso as a syrup. Japan already makes shiso shochu, which tells you it works.
Agave syrup
Worth trying
The neutral sweetener. Use when you want to balance acid without adding a flavor.
Ways to serve it
On the rocks
Mizuwari (with water)
Brown sugar shochu is legally only made on the Amami islands, and it is a cane spirit in everything but name. Every rum drink you know is available to it at two thirds the alcohol.
Cocktails other people made
Nobody has published a cocktail written for this exact bottle. These were written for other bottles, so each one says which, and what changes if you pour this instead.
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not a brown sugar shochu. This bottle is lighter, 25% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.
·3 ounces buckwheat tea concentrate (see editor's note)
Written for iichiko Saiten, which is a barley shochu, not a brown sugar shochu. This bottle is lighter, 25% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.
·1 ounce plus 5 teaspoons shochu, preferably iichiko saiten
·1/2 teaspoon mezcal, preferably fidencio joven
·3/4 ounce citrus blend (equal parts lemon and lime juice)