Mugicha (barley tea), tall over ice. Genmaicha with it.
Oolong-hai and green tea highballs are on every izakaya menu, and barley is clean enough to let the tea lead.
One part shochu to three or four parts mixer, over plenty of ice. If it tastes thin, go two to three next time.
What it tastes like
Mugi shochu in Kagoshima. Importer's tasting notes: soft, light bodied, clean, dry. Nobody here has tasted this one, so the profile below is estimated from what its importer publishes rather than from the glass.
barley
soft
light-bodied
clean
dry
sweet
aged
koji
Sweet
2/5
Body
1/5
Aroma
2/5
Fruit
0/5
Floral
0/5
Grain
4/5
Earth
1/5
Umami
0/5
Base
barley with barley koji
Koji
white koji
Distillation
single atmospheric (normal pressure) distillation
ABV
25%
Aging
more than 6 months
What to mix with it
Tap a family to narrow it down. Every suggestion carries its reasoning, so if the reasoning does not convince you, ignore the suggestion.
Roasted buckwheat, in any Japanese grocery, hot or cold. In a soba restaurant the same serve is made with soba-yu, the starchy water the noodles were boiled in, which is thicker and cannot be bought.
Oolong-hai and green tea highballs are on every izakaya menu, and barley is clean enough to let the tea lead.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Roasted buckwheat and roasted barley are one idea arrived at from two grains
Soft water, cold, over ice or not. One to one is normal. Mix a day ahead (maewari) and the edges round off.
Barley has less to open up than sweet potato, so water shows you exactly what is there. That is a fair test and not always a flattering one: a thin mugi has nowhere to hide in it.
Mizuwari shows a clean bottle as it is, just lighter
Bitter orange: sour and aromatic rather than sweet, the citrus that goes into ponzu. Bottled juice is sold for cooking and works straight in a glass. Use the peel too, it carries most of the smell.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
The peel is doing what the orange twist on an old fashioned does
A Miyazaki citrus eaten with the white pith left on, which is sweet rather than bitter. Gentler and more floral than lemon, so it flavours a drink without taking it over.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
Mild enough that a light bottle is still the thing you taste
Okinawa's own citrus, picked green and sharp, more bitter than lime and more floral than sudachi. Squeezed over awamori and soda it is what the islands actually drink.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
Sharper and more bitter than a lime, which is what keeps it from disappearing into a light bottle
Hoppy Beverage Co. has made it in Tokyo since 1948; at 0.8 percent it is legally a soft drink, and it is hard to find outside Japan. Chill the bottle, the shochu and the mug and no ice is needed.
The barley highball is the default shochu drink in Japan. Clean spirit, cold soda, nothing in the way.
An aged bottle is the one you would not lengthen with a beer substitute
One part shochu to five parts Hoppy lands near 4 percent and drinks like a pint with none of beer's body
It was built around neutral shochu, and that is still where it fits best
Lustau or González Byass. Fino is salt and living flor; this is what is left after the flor dies, and at 18 percent an ounce lengthens the glass rather than strengthening it.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Both have spent years going quietly brown, and they meet in the middle
Small Hand Foods', or sugar, water and gum arabic from the baking aisle at home. Worth knowing that most Japanese gum syrup on a shelf today has no arabic gum in it at all.
A 25 percent spirit brings far less viscosity than a 40 percent one, so a shaken sour goes thin
The sweetener for a bottle you do not actually want to sweeten
Hot water in the glass first, spirit poured on top so it mixes itself. Around 40C in the glass is the sweet spot. This is not the only way, it is one way.
Barley has less to open up than sweet potato, so water shows you exactly what is there. That is a fair test and not always a flattering one: a thin mugi has nowhere to hide in it.
Sakamoto's, fermented outdoors in earthenware jars in Fukuyama and aged at least a year; Toiro and Japanese Taste ship it in the US. A teaspoon in a mizuwari is the whole intervention, and a second one is usually a mistake.
Black vinegar is rice fermented with koji and then soured, so it is the same mould arriving a second time
Dashi-wari and an umeboshi in hot barley shochu are real izakaya orders, but they belong to a winter counter rather than a summer glass.
Eden Foods sells it as Ume Plum Vinegar in most US supermarkets, and it is one of the cheapest things on this list. A bar spoon, and unlike a crushed umeboshi it can go into a shaken drink.
Salt and lactic acid land on the sweetness koji leaves behind
Dashi-wari and an umeboshi in hot barley shochu are real izakaya orders, but they belong to a winter counter rather than a summer glass.
Zuiyo's Kuririn, from Japanese chestnuts at 11 percent, or Dover's wa-shu kuri, which is on a rum base. A dessert direction, and not the same thing as kuri shochu, which is a base spirit.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Blandy's or Barbeito, ten year. It is the one fortified wine that brings real acid, so it can do the lemon's job on a bottle where fresh citrus reads harsh.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Cold-pressed juice or thin slices. Green apple is already in the aroma of a lot of rice shochu, so this amplifies what is there rather than adding something new.
Barley's light sweetness reads as orchard fruit already, so apple and pear extend the bottle rather than decorate it.
Two slices from any Asian grocery, seeds out. The bitterness is water soluble, so at 25 percent it steeps in minutes and stops there, where a 40 percent spirit pulls it medicinal within the hour.
Cucumber and a clean barley highball is the most refreshing thing you can build out of this category.
Hana Makgeolli is brewed in Greenpoint, Brooklyn; Makku sells a canned one. Strength varies widely across the category, from around 6 percent in a can to the mid teens for an unfiltered takju, so read the label before deciding how much to pour.
The yeasty haze gives back the body distillation took out
A pinch in the glass or a half rim. Salt does not make a drink salty in small amounts; it makes it taste more like itself.
Dashi-wari and an umeboshi in hot barley shochu are real izakaya orders, but they belong to a winter counter rather than a summer glass.
Ways to serve it
Mizuwari (with water)
On the rocks
Barley is the easiest shochu to hand to someone who has never had any. It behaves like a clean grain spirit with a little cereal sweetness, so a highball with lemon needs no explaining and no apology.
Cocktails other people made
Nobody has published a cocktail written for this exact bottle. These were written for other bottles, so each one says which, and what changes if you pour this instead.
Written for Nankai Gold Shochu, which is a brown sugar shochu, not a barley shochu. This bottle is lighter, 25% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.