Sobacha (roasted buckwheat tea), tall over ice. Coffee (cold brew) with it.
Oolong-hai and green tea highballs are on every izakaya menu, and barley is clean enough to let the tea lead.
One part shochu to three or four parts mixer, over plenty of ice. If it tastes thin, go two to three next time.
What it tastes like
Mugi shochu from Bungyo Meijyo in Oita. Importer's tasting notes: vanilla, chocolate, nutty, earthy. Nobody here has tasted this one, so the profile below is estimated from what its importer publishes rather than from the glass.
barley
vanilla
chocolate
nutty
earthy
savory
spice
long finish
koji
Sweet
2/5
Body
1/5
Aroma
3/5
Fruit
0/5
Floral
0/5
Grain
4/5
Earth
1/5
Umami
1/5
Base
100% barley milled to 50%, with barley koji
Koji
white koji (barley)
Distillation
vacuum distillation
ABV
28%
What to mix with it
Tap a family to narrow it down. Every suggestion carries its reasoning, so if the reasoning does not convince you, ignore the suggestion.
Roasted buckwheat, in any Japanese grocery, hot or cold. In a soba restaurant the same serve is made with soba-yu, the starchy water the noodles were boiled in, which is thicker and cannot be bought.
Oolong-hai and green tea highballs are on every izakaya menu, and barley is clean enough to let the tea lead.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Roasted buckwheat and roasted barley are one idea arrived at from two grains
Zuiyo's Kuririn, from Japanese chestnuts at 11 percent, or Dover's wa-shu kuri, which is on a rum base. A dessert direction, and not the same thing as kuri shochu, which is a base spirit.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Chestnut and cocoa is a dessert that already exists
Nut on nut, and on a kuri shochu one of the two is the bottle's own raw material
Two slices from any Asian grocery, seeds out. The bitterness is water soluble, so at 25 percent it steeps in minutes and stops there, where a 40 percent spirit pulls it medicinal within the hour.
Cucumber and a clean barley highball is the most refreshing thing you can build out of this category.
Bitterness that answers earth without adding any sweetness to it
The Okinawa brewers' association publishes a goya cocktail of its own, so this is not an idea from outside
Hot water in the glass first, spirit poured on top so it mixes itself. Around 40C in the glass is the sweet spot. This is not the only way, it is one way.
Barley has less to open up than sweet potato, so water shows you exactly what is there. That is a fair test and not always a flattering one: a thin mugi has nowhere to hide in it.
Heat pulls the earth and the sweetness out of a bottle
Sakamoto's, fermented outdoors in earthenware jars in Fukuyama and aged at least a year; Toiro and Japanese Taste ship it in the US. A teaspoon in a mizuwari is the whole intervention, and a second one is usually a mistake.
Black vinegar is rice fermented with koji and then soured, so it is the same mould arriving a second time
Acid with an amino depth behind it, which suits the koji side better than a lemon does
Dashi-wari and an umeboshi in hot barley shochu are real izakaya orders, but they belong to a winter counter rather than a summer glass.
Lustau or González Byass. Fino is salt and living flor; this is what is left after the flor dies, and at 18 percent an ounce lengthens the glass rather than strengthening it.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Hazelnut and dried orange peel land straight on a nutty bottle
Soft water, cold, over ice or not. One to one is normal. Mix a day ahead (maewari) and the edges round off.
Barley has less to open up than sweet potato, so water shows you exactly what is there. That is a fair test and not always a flattering one: a thin mugi has nowhere to hide in it.
Bitter orange: sour and aromatic rather than sweet, the citrus that goes into ponzu. Bottled juice is sold for cooking and works straight in a glass. Use the peel too, it carries most of the smell.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
Hoppy Beverage Co. has made it in Tokyo since 1948; at 0.8 percent it is legally a soft drink, and it is hard to find outside Japan. Chill the bottle, the shochu and the mug and no ice is needed.
The barley highball is the default shochu drink in Japan. Clean spirit, cold soda, nothing in the way.
A Miyazaki citrus eaten with the white pith left on, which is sweet rather than bitter. Gentler and more floral than lemon, so it flavours a drink without taking it over.
The lemon sour is the single most ordered shochu drink in Japan, and barley is what it is usually built on.
Blandy's or Barbeito, ten year. It is the one fortified wine that brings real acid, so it can do the lemon's job on a bottle where fresh citrus reads harsh.
Grain and roast are the same flavour arrived at twice, once by the still and once by the pan.
Cold-pressed juice or thin slices. Green apple is already in the aroma of a lot of rice shochu, so this amplifies what is there rather than adding something new.
Barley's light sweetness reads as orchard fruit already, so apple and pear extend the bottle rather than decorate it.
Mikawa Mirin from Sumiya Bunjiro Shoten, made from glutinous rice, koji and shochu since 1911 with no added sugar. Not the sweetened seasoning sold as mirin-fu chomiryo, which is a different product.
Sweet and savoury at once is what mirin is for in a kitchen, and the glass is no different
The Kyushu condiment, in a tube in any Japanese grocer: fermented yuzu peel, green chili and salt. A quarter teaspoon stirred into an oyuwari, which is the serve Asahi publishes.
The chili leaves warmth at the back rather than heat on the tongue
Cynar, 16.5 percent, which is weaker than the shochu itself, so equal parts lands near 20 percent and the drink stays long. Soda or a grapefruit soda over the top is the producer's own serve.
This is a light bottle and this is a heavy ingredient. It will not taste bad, it will taste like the ingredient.
Vegetal bitterness against earth, which is a closer match than a caramel amaro makes
Both halves of the glass are savoury, which is unusual for a bitter drink
Eden Foods sells it as Ume Plum Vinegar in most US supermarkets, and it is one of the cheapest things on this list. A bar spoon, and unlike a crushed umeboshi it can go into a shaken drink.
Salt and sour cut across a vanilla note rather than joining it
Salt and lactic acid land on the sweetness koji leaves behind
Salt and acid arrive together, which is what a salted rim does for a margarita
Dashi-wari and an umeboshi in hot barley shochu are real izakaya orders, but they belong to a winter counter rather than a summer glass.
A drop. Think of it as salt with depth, for the savory glass only.
Dashi-wari and an umeboshi in hot barley shochu are real izakaya orders, but they belong to a winter counter rather than a summer glass.
Ways to serve it
Mizuwari (with water)
On the rocks
Barley is the easiest shochu to hand to someone who has never had any. It behaves like a clean grain spirit with a little cereal sweetness, so a highball with lemon needs no explaining and no apology.
Cocktails other people made
Nobody has published a cocktail written for this exact bottle. These were written for other bottles, so each one says which, and what changes if you pour this instead.
Written for Nankai Gold Shochu, which is a brown sugar shochu, not a barley shochu. This bottle is lighter, 28% against 43%, so cut the mixer back or it will disappear.